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Arsenal fans guide to Fenerbahce and Istanbul

This is a story from the FSF archive – the FSF and SD merged to become the FSA in 2019.

While our International Ground Guide is undergoing some maintenance ahead of the new season, we thought we’d provide our usual service of advice and information for travelling supporters in brief blog form.

Once up and running again our ground guide will cover all manner of information from travel options to hotel advice, eating and drinking suggestions to practical tips on getting around, along with safety and security advice and anything else we think will be of use to travelling supporters. 

In the meantime, while the below might not necessarily have all the information you’ll be after if you’re heading out to Istanbul this week, we’re always available to help – just drop us an email if you have any questions.

We’ll do our best to find out what you need to know, either from our own vast experience in covering England and Wales games abroad, or from our friends at Football Supporters Europe.

The Stadium

The Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium is located in the area of Kadiköy which is a large and populous cosmopolitan district in the Anatolian side of Istanbul. The stadium is named after Mehmet Şükrü Saracoğlu, a politician and the sixth Prime Minister of Turkey. The Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium was inaugurated in 1908 and was renovated in 1999 and again in 2006, increasing the capacity to today’s 50,500. Basically, Fenerbahçe’s ground has gone through a complete rebuilding process that involved each stand being destroyed and rebuilt one after the other.

Away fans should usually enter the ground via gates 35 & 36. There are bars and restaurants around the immediate area of the stadium, but they are predominantly used by Fenerbahce fans, and there are no specific away bars.

The stadium is built within very narrow roads, heavily populated by houses, flats and business premises. Traffic is a major problem in Istanbul, especially adjacent to the stadium. The away section entrance is directly next to a dual carriageway, there is not an easy access route to this area by foot, if fans come by taxis they are likely to be dropped off on the dual carriageway. If you are heading to the ground from another part of Istanbul and crossing the Bosphorus, keep an eye out for Kadikoy Ferry – this is around a 30 minute walk from the stadium

The Team

Fenerbahçe was formed in 1907 as Fenerbahçe Spor Kulübü (Fenerbahçe sport Club) and was the second Turkish football club, after their arch-rivals galatasaray who formed in 1905. The club had to be kept under wraps because of the strict Ottoman rule, where Turkish youths were not allowed to set up clubs or play football. The club are known as Sarı Kanaryalar, or The Yellow Canaries.

The club have a long history of success, holding the Guiness World Record as the 1st team ever finishing a season without allowing a goal in 1922/23. Their domestic record reads as follows: 27 titles, including 18 Super Lig triumphs; 6 Turkish Cups; and 8 Turkish Super Cups (along with a string of runners-up finishes). They are regular participants in the Champions League and Europa League – their best performance in the former was a Quarter Final in 2008 (losing to Chelsea), while they reached last year’s Europa League semi-finals. 

The City

Istanbul is one of Europe’s great cities, and a real assault on the senses. Spanning the Bosphorus it links Europe with Asia, and is the only city in the world to sit on two continents. Because we’re incredibly helpful souls at the FSF, we’ve produced you your very own Google Map of Istanbul, showing major landmarks, mosques, and of course the stadiums of the three Istanbul clubs.

Istanbul (not Konstantinople) has a rich history which can be explored throughout the city where loads of palaces and ancient buildings have left their mark from bygone days. The main places to see include the Aya Sophia, Dolmabahce and Topkapi Palaces, the Sultanahmet Blue Mosque, the Bosphorus and the Galata Tower among others (all marked on our map, above).

Visiting the Mosques

Most mosques in Istanbul are open to the public during the day. Prayer sessions, called namaz, last 30 to 40 minutes and are observed five times daily. Tourists should, however, avoid visiting mosques midday on Friday, when Muslims are required to worship. For women, bare arms and legs are not acceptable inside a mosque. Men should avoid wearing shorts as well. Women should not enter a mosque without first covering their heads with a scarf. Before entering a mosque, shoes must be removed.

Orientation and Getting Around

The Bosphorus strait, between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara, divides Europe from Asia. On its western shore, European Istanbul is further divided by the Golden Horn (Haliç) into Old Instanbul in the south and Beyoğlu in the north. Sultanahmet is the heart of Old Istanbul and boasts many of the city’s most famous sites. The adjoining area, with hotels to suit all budgets, is actually called Cankurtaran, although if you say ‘Sultanahmet’ most people will understand where you mean.

North of the Sultanahmet, on the Golden Horn, is Sirkeci Railway Station, terminus for European train services. Ferries for Űskűdar, the Prices’ Islands and the Bosphorus leave from nearby Eminőnű, the bustling waterfront.Across the Galata Bridge (Galta Kőprűsű) from Eminőnű is Karakőy, where cruise ships dock. Ferries also depart from Karakőy for Kadikőy and Haydarpaşa on the Asian shore.

Beyoğlu, on the norther side of the Golden Horn, was once the ‘new’ or ‘European’ city. The Tűnel (at the underground railway) runs uphill from Karakőy to the southern end of Beyoğlu’s pedestrianised main street, İstiklal Caddesi. A tram runs all the way toTaksim Square, at the north end of the street, and the heart of the ‘modern’ Istanbul.On the Asian side, Haydarpaşa station is the terminus for trains to Anatolia, Syria and Iran. There’s an intercity otogar (bus station) at Harem, a 10-minute taxi ride north.

Getting around the city is best advised on foot, or by taxis and public transport – Istanbul has a good public transport system incorporating various means of transport: buses, metro, light metro, tram, trains and even two funicular railways and several sea bus lines and ferry services. Buying an AKBIL is a good idea if you are in Istanbul for more than a day or two, and intend to use any public transport. It is like a little key, and is a pass that gives you access to buses, trams, metro and even the local ferries. The great thing for tourists is that you can buy one and buzz it as many times as there are passengers. Ticket fares across buses, trams and metros are standard (i.e. not dependant on how far you go), so you just buzz the AKBIL when you get on the bus or enter the tram/metro platform. You can buy these at booths marked Akbil at Eminonu.For more information on the public transport system in Istanbul see

Sea Bus and Ferry – There are 27 seaports and 29 terminals on the shores of Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara which are served by a fleet of ferryboats and catamaran type sea buses of the company IDO. For more information go to (English website of the IDO company).

Eating and Drinking

Beyoğlu is notorious for its cafes, bars and live music venues. The area around the central Taksim Square is arguably the place where most of the English football fans are to be found. The best value, as ever, is to be found in the smaller bars in the side streets rather than on the main drags of the likes of Istiklal Caddesi. If you’re after that taste of ‘home from home,  then the Irish Centre is located at Istiklal Cad, Huseyinaga Mah, Balo Sok 26. Other English pubs include The North Shield in the Sultahnamet area of the city, or there is always the English Pub in the President’s Hotel.

Thanks to AMaleki for the image reproduced under CC license.


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